The Flaggy Shore – Clare and Inis Mor

A few months ago, my father told me he’d received an invitation to County Clare. He’d reread Postscript by Seamus Heaney, a truly moving reflection on this exceptional corner of Ireland. I was lucky enough to be on my own journey to Clare and onwards to Galway shortly after we spoke, the poem tucked into my notebook and excited – I’ve been lucky enough to explore a lot of Ireland but Clare and Galway were still on my list.

Doonagore Castle on the Wild Atlantic Way

As an avid user of public transport at home and when travelling, I arrived into Dublin and after a short stroll in Phoenix Park, was off on the train to Ennis, the county town of Clare. Known as the centre of Ireland’s traditional music scene I was incredibly lucky to be visiting during Trad Fest and as I explored the town, snatches of sessions drifted out of every pub doorway – it was hard to pick a spot to settle and enjoy some music along with a perfect half pint of Guinness.

Looking for a spot to enjoy a drink and trad session

After a very comfortable evening, I was up early the next day to meet my tour guide Trevor, for a tour-transfer through the Burren up to Ballyvaughan where I had picked a spot for chowder before travelling up to Galway later that afternoon.

First, we set off towards the Cliffs of Moher, a must for any visitor to Clare. Well maintained and invested in by the Irish government with facilities appropriate to the 1.5 million visits every year, there is still not much that can prepare you for the view – an almost surreal experience. Had I more time I would have done some of the coastal walk, but it was time for us to venture deeper into the Burren.

Gazing out onto the Cliffs of Moher

Heaney’s words came to life as I struggled to decide which way to look – out to the ocean on one side or the magnificent karst landscape of the Burren on the other? My visit was in November, a favourite time of the year for me as I adore the low winter sun but I resolved return in the summer, to learn more about the unique wildlife and flora within.

After an incredibly enjoyable few hours I enjoyed a late lunch in Ballyvaughan with a view of the Atlantic in front of me before travelling up to the city of Galway. I was instantly charmed – the medieval quarter with its shops, bars and restaurants was an appealing place to while away a few hours before some fresh scampi, chips and a local beer, before heading back to my harbourside hotel.

The contrasting limestone landscape of Inis Mor

The next morning I was up bright and early for another highlight of this trip – a day trip to Inis Mor, the largest of the Aran Islands and at the time of my visit having become suddenly very well known, having been used as one of the filming locations for The Banshees of Inisherin.

In the summer time, a ferry goes to Inis Mor from right by my Galway city hotel, but in November I was to hop on a bus up to Rossaveel where I caught glimpses of the wilds of Connemara before catching the ferry, where we were joined by a pod of dolphins as we crossed, thrilling as my first ever sighting!

Aran Islands Knitwear

On arrival I was met by a local guide, a native Irish speaker who had lived on the island most of his life. I was most grateful for his company as we crossed another flaggy shore to Poll na bPéist – The Wormhole, a naturally formed and almost perfectly rectangular pool, surrounded by the tall waves of the north Atlantic – essential to have an experienced guide on hand to keep you right!

Poll na bPéist – The Wormhole

We explored the island as my guide shared stories of the island and its people and history. Farming has been a huge part of the island’s history, the stone wall patchwork of the island a constant reminder. Whilst around 800 people live on the island, much of the island is still completely untouched and has no electricity or water supply, and belongs to nature alone.

My day went in quickly, enjoying my tour, an obligatory Irish stew in Kilmurvey in a traditional thatched cottage, followed by a walk up the cliffs of Dun Aengus by myself, an easy walk and a welcome opportunity to reflect on this special island before retracing my steps back to Galway city by ferry and bus as dusk fell, before a train back to Dublin to begin my way home the following day.

Meeting the friendly locals on Inis Mor

Inis Mor and Clare had given me a taste of Ireland I hadn’t yet experienced, with these differing scales of distinctive landscape made up of ancient limestone contrasting beautifully with my experiences of Cork and Kerry but as always, with that special essence of Irish hospitality and spirit.

My experience in Clare and Galway was made all the more memorable by the talent and passion of the guides I met, a perfect harmony of the environmental benefits of car-free travel marrying with the social and ethical benefits of supporting local tourism. I’ll have to borrow Heaney’s summation to conclude how I felt after this experience, which caught “the heart off guard, and blow it open.”

Words & Images by Caoimhe @ McKinlay Kidd

McKinlay Kidd offer a number of car-free holidays to Ireland – why not check out our Explore Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way Car-Free trip or take your time on our three-week Slowly Through Ireland by Train holiday? Or, if you’d prefer a fully escorted experience in the company of a knowledgeable guide, discover our Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way Guided Rail Tour. Visit our website for more holiday inspiration.

Ireland: Through the Eyes of Locals in Cork and Killarney

There is something very exciting about holidaying by train. The environmental benefits are becoming clearer to holiday makers, not to mention being an extremely comfortable way to travel – there is nothing nicer than a bright fresh morning, a fresh cup of coffee and a window seat with a table to enjoy the view.

This is how I started my break by rail, starting from Belfast and taking in Cork and Kerry over St Patrick’s Day this year.

I boarded the very comfy Enterprise train to Dublin, easily changing stations in Dublin using the Luas which helpfully announced the passing stops before another comfortable train to Cork City. In spite of the road travel usually taking about 7 hours, I felt I had crossed the country quickly, being happily ensconced at my hotel by tea time.

Cork is full of colourful quirky shops

Cork City is a lovely place to explore on foot. I stretched my legs taking in the River Lee and the compulsory half pint or two of Guinness in some very friendly pubs. As a solo traveller, I was immediately taken by the friendliness of Irish hospitality – always just enough, never too much.

One of the many pubs you can enjoy a tipple with friendly locals

The following morning I was met by a local guide – Kevin – who took me on a walking tour of the city. It was fabulous to have this small city I had been exploring by myself brought to life around me as I strolled from the cathedral to the university area to the famous English Market – a beautifully preserved covered food market with lots of artisanal producers popular with locals and tourists alike. A certain monarch enjoyed her visit too, being amused and charmed by a quick witted fishmonger!

The historical English Market

Back on the train I headed for the tourist town of Killarney. This train ride ended with real anticipation as I reached Killarney – I knew Kerry was famed for its mountains and waterfalls, but the sight of the McGillycuddy Reeks welcoming us travellers as we pulled in to Killarney made the arrival very exciting.

As I explored the town on foot I was treated to live music spilling out of pubs, traditional restaurants and shops and a bustling atmosphere. A highlight of my stay was a jaunting car ride in to the National Park with a Cal, local jarvey and Olly, our loyal steed. This was very special, and will stay with me. I learned of the sika and red deer of the park, the differing lakes and mountains, the history of Ross Castle and the fairy trees of hawthorn or ash – considered by the Celts to be sacred and to this day remain undisturbed by farmers and locals. 

Jaunting car ride through Killarney national park

My afternoon was completed by an Irish stew and a visit to Killarney House, where I enjoyed discovering the biodiversity of the park and the importance of maintaining its balance and health for the wider ecosystem. When I return to Killarney I‘ll hire a bike and tarry longer, but for now my tour was complete, and it was back to Dublin by rail to embark on my journey home.

Walking around the grounds of Ross Castle

It’s easy to see why Ireland has inspired poets, musicians and artists at home and the world over – the hanging baskets and multi-coloured painted shop fronts are instantly cheering and the hospitality and local stories, alongside an inspiring backdrop certainly left me wanting more and excited to pick up my car-free travels sooner rather than later and complete more of the Wild Atlantic Way.

Words & Images by Caoimhe @ McKinlay Kidd

McKinlay Kidd offer a number of holidays in and around Cork and Killarney, including self-drive, public transport and small group guided tours.

If you’re interested in a guided experience, why not book a space on our Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way Guided Rail Tour? If you’d prefer to travel car-free, we have options including our Explore Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way Car-Free trip. Longer stay in mind? Then maybe you would like to uncover the entire 2500km length on our Complete Wild Atlantic Way Road Trip. Do let us know if you’d like to include Cork or Killarney as part of a tailor-made Scotland tour. Visit our website for more holiday inspiration.

Traditional Music in Ennis, County Clare

Here we are in the County Clare, it’s a long, long way from here to there.
Flutes and fiddles everywhere.
If it’s music you want, you should go to Clare.

‘Lisdoonvarna’ by Christy Moore, 1984

It would be fair to say that the town of Ennis in Co Clare is not the first destination anyone thinks of when planning a holiday to Ireland. This little county town on the River Fergus, 40km north west of Limerick and around a 30-minute drive from the wild Atlantic coast is somewhat off the traditional tourist trail, but at McKinlay Kidd we love it as it has an atmosphere all its own. By some it is regarded as the very epi-centre of Irish traditional music.

There’s a commitment to upholding the legacy of ‘trad’ here, though there’s a lightness of touch that comes only when that tradition is simply a normal part of everyday life. Reverence exists, of course, but there’s little sign of stuffiness, and no stiff collars.

Sometimes it seems that musicians are the more common breed here; there’s a constant flow of youngsters attending competitions for every instrument from tin whistle to harmonica, fiddle to flute and concertina to harp and all points in-between. Compete in the town heats, move on to the county rounds and make your bid for the All-Ireland championships. It’s not uncommon to find All-Ireland champion players in the corner of a bar ‘leaning in’ to The Connaughtman’s Rambles or Drowsy Maggie.

Cooley’s House, pub in Ennis

On most evenings in Spring and Summer, it can be more difficult to find a pub from which the strains of Paddy McGintys Goat don’t emanate. Perhaps from a group of just three musicians – fiddle, flute and concertina, for example – or a larger ensemble including multiple fiddles, uilleann pipes, bouzouki and even full-size harp.

A favourite ‘tune’ (the colloquialism for a live music session) takes place at Considine’s Bar (known locally as Fafa’s – most pubs have a nickname, for some reason). ‘Piping Heaven, Piping Hell’ is hosted by uilleann pipe legend Blackie O’Connell, and features pipe players young and old from all over Clare, alongside bouzouki maestro Cyril O’Donoghue. The sound of eight sets of pipes belting out Spike Island Lassies seems to make the creamy Guinness go down even better.

Sit back and enjoy a pint of Guinness in a characterful pub

Perhaps pop into PJ Kelly’s where some of the very best of Clare’s musicians often gather, sometimes with Geraldine Cotter on piano, her brother Eamonn on flute, Jack Talty on concertina and Meadhbh Hendrie on fiddle, as well as an ever-changing mix of players from all over the county. It’s a relaxed affair; a few reels and an air or two, then maybe 10 minutes of chat. This is a social outing as much as a ‘tune’, the musicians’ way of communicating their day-to-day, their family lives and stories of the week, all over a pint or two, of course.

And one of the best things about all of this, is that everyone is welcome and no tickets are required. Indeed, Ennis is consistently voted ‘Ireland’s Friendliest Town’, so be aware that strangers will bid you ‘good morning’ or ‘how’re ye?’ in the street unprompted, and foreign accents in bars invite questions and curiosity.

Away from music (if that’s even possible here) Ennis features a stunning 19th-century cathedral filled with superb art and a wonderful pipe organ, as well as a 13th-century friary. There’s a pleasingly independent feel to the extensive shopping, with few recognisable names, including several excellent bookshops and a ramshackle antique shop or two.

Take a wander up O’Connell Street, the monument overseeing all, lined with shops of all kinds, great coffee bars and one or two excellent pubs (of course) then maybe stop by The Town Hall bistro for lunch of chunky seafood chowder and just-baked local bread. Ennis is a fine base from which to explore wider Co Clare, too, with the mystical landscape of the Burren, the soaring Cliffs of Moher and the superb beaches at Lahinch and Spanish Point all within easy reach.

Trad music session in Fafa’s

And I have something of a confession to make; this music-obsessed Glasgow boy met and fell in love with an Ennis musician, got married here in 2016 and moved here permanently in 2022. Having been visiting since 2011, the transition to full-time Ennis life has been a challenge, soothed in large part by the welcome afforded every visitor, and the incredible, authentic, joyous music that seems to vibrate from every corner of town.

Words & Images by Chris Hendrie

McKinlay Kidd offer a number of holidays to Ireland, including self-drive, public transport and small group guided tours. Why not check out our Grand Tour of Ireland by Train to experience the best of the Emerald Isle? Our Wild Atlantic Way Guided Rail Tour also features an extensive trad music session in Ennis where you can discover the quirks and lore of traditional music and dance for yourself.

Do let us know if you’d like to include Ennis as part of a tailor-made Ireland tour. Visit our website for more holiday inspiration.

The Charming Streets of Kinsale

Nestled on the edge of the south coast of Ireland and surrounded by the natural beauty of the glorious Irish countryside, the picturesque town of Kinsale offers a warm welcome to travellers from all over the globe.

At first glance, one may wonder why this small town attracts so many visitors, but after being lucky enough to spend a few days exploring on my recent trip to Ireland, it was quickly clear to me just what was so appealing about it.

Kinsale is full of colour and characterand every time you turn a corner on the countless skinny, winding roads, you are met with brightly painted houses, charming shops and cafes and, of course, an abundance of traditional pubs. Each locale is packed full of character and provides visitors with the chance to mingle with the friendly locals in front of a roaring fire. From my own experience, this was the perfect way to warm up on a damp windy night – Kinsale is perched on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, after all!

When in Ireland…it would be rude not to!

The seaside location means there are countless restaurants offering freshly caught seafood, but I found I was also spoiled for choice with other local goodies such as cheese and whisky – there is definitely a reason why Kinsale has the most restaurants per head in Ireland . There is even a Willy Wonka-esque chocolate shop where all sorts of wacky creations are created on site! I was also able to sample culinary delights in the food markets set up along cobbled streets that are not much wider than a car.

My time in Kinsale was brief, but I am already planning a return visit on my next trip to Ireland. As it lies on the famous Wild Atlantic Way driving route, it is an excellent base where drivers can explore the surrounding area of County Cork and follow the twisting winding roads that scale the coastline of this breath-taking part of the country. I can only imagine the other quaint villages and beautiful beaches in this area, and I am itching to discover them.

The delicious food, postcard-perfect buildings, and shops full of quirky trinkets – many of which I happily lost an afternoon browsing through – meant Kinsale ticked all of the boxes on my holiday wish list!

McKinlay Kidd offer a number of holidays along the illustrious Wild Atlantic Way, many of which include a trip to Kinsale. Browse our Ireland holidays on our website, or alternatively give us a call on 0141 260 9260 to arrange a tailor-made Ireland holiday that suits your exact requirements.

Words and images by Rhona @ McKinlay Kidd

In the Footsteps of Giants

I have known the Giant’s Causeway since I was a wee boy. We visited every summer during the school holidays and, like many, I was entranced by the stories of the warring Irish and Scottish Giants who created and destroyed it respectively.

Our visits always went beyond the Causeway itself and took in the cliff-top walks to the east. From here we enjoyed views to Rathlin Island, County Donegal and even Scotland.

My memory may be misleading but I seem to remember we would finish our trip with an ice cream down by the harbour at nearby Ballintoy or maybe a trip to the beach at White Park Bay – miles of sand with the occasional herd of cows for company.

When I was older we would attempt the crossing of Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, though I was never keen on such a precarious place.

In fact the whole of the “Causeway Coast” was the focus of many family holidays for us and I absolutely loved it.

Roll on some forty plus years and I found myself back there last week. Of course, there has been change. The Giant’s Causeway is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and draws thousands of visitors from all over the world. Some squeeze in a visit on day trips from Dublin – far too rushed to be anything I would ever advise! There are audio guides, a shuttle bus for the less able, toilets, park and ride etc. The focal point is the very impressive National Trust visitor centre, opened five years ago now, complete with shop, cafe and interpretation centre. The latter pleasingly gives equal emphasis to the two alternative stories of the creation of the Causeway: the geological version describing volcanoes and lava versus the mythological yet colourful tales of mighty beings. The centre is a clever design, single storey with a grass roof and pretty much hidden from the coastline itself – apparently aided by a complete lack of ninety-degree angles to draw the eye.

I admit I was worried that all this change would take away the magic of the place, the magic which captivated a small boy all those years ago. Instead I felt rather proud of my home country: people of all different nationalities were now discovering the magic for themselves. We continued our walk beyond the stones, away from many of the visitors, and onto the clifftops. From here I couldn’t help thinking that nature – or the Giants’ handiwork – hadn’t changed that much after all.

By Robert Kidd

Across Ireland to the Edge of Europe: Tom’s Car-free Irish break

When I’m exploring a new part of the world car hire is usually one of the first things I book so I know how I’m getting from A to B, especially outside main cities. So it was with some trepidation that I set off for Ireland last week on a car-free trip taking in Dublin, Galway and the wonderful Aran Islands. On arrival at Dublin Airport I was met by my friendly driver and whisked into the city centre via the impressive and rejuvenated Docklands area – the sheer number of cranes on the horizon and the number of high-tech firms who have moved in was a sign of a city on the move. I used Robert’s Recommendations, which are personally researched by our Founder and Director Robert Kidd and supplied to all McKinlay Kidd clients, to navigate my way around the Irish capital and made use of taxis, buses, trams and my favourite method of transport in a new city – walking. From St. Stephen’s Green to Trinity College to Dublin Castle I managed to get a real flavour of the city, discovered some quirky off-the-beaten-track attractions and sampled amazing food and great craic in the pubs of the city.

After far too short a visit it was time to move on to the west of Ireland and the excellent service from Iarnrod Eireann (Irish Rail) really let the train take the strain as it whisked me across the country from east to west in less than three hours with great views of the countryside of the Irish Midlands. The train comes in to the heart of Galway City at Eyre Square in the heart of the Latin Quarter, a fantastic warren of narrow cobblestone streets bursting with pubs that host trad music throughout the week as well as some of the best seafood restaurants I have ever eaten at. The hotel was located just a few minutes’ walk from the station and I spent the afternoon walking the path that runs along the fast-flowing River Corrib before sampling some local oysters, which luckily go very well with a pint of Guinness!

The highlight of the trip was the crossing to Inis Mór, the largest of the Aran Islands, accessed by bus from Galway City to the ferry port an hour to the west in the Connemara region then by a 45 minute ferry crossing. The landscape of this incredible island is marked by the distinctive limestone pavements that are also found in The Burren region on the mainland as well as the remoteness of the island’s location on the very edge of Europe – we took a ride in a jeep to the very western tip of the island with nothing out ahead of us but the Atlantic Ocean all the way to Newfoundland, an amazing thought! I would recommend staying at least a couple of nights to experience the island’s amazing Irish speaking culture and rugged scenery but unfortunately my trip was only for the day. I still managed to have a browse in the Aran Sweaters shop and enjoy a pint of Guinness before taking the evening ferry back to the mainland!

The following day it was a seamless journey back to Dublin on a spacious, brand new train to connect with my short flight back home to Scotland and without realising it I had become a car-free holiday convert! So next time you travel why not consider leaving the car and travelling by public transport as the locals do – you see your destination from a whole new perspective.

By Tom @ McKinlay Kidd

Have a bit more time for your own holiday? Check out McKinlay Kidd’s Grand Tour of Ireland by Train.

South by Southwest: Hamish’s home from home

Given that I was brought up in the South West of Scotland, it seemed apt that my first visit to Ireland with McKinlay Kidd was to the South West of the Island to discover the Wild Atlantic WayCork and Kerry. The similarities were uncanny; rolling hills, lush green forests, rugged coastlines and long sandy beaches. Not forgetting of course, the warm and friendly locals.

Flying from Glasgow to Cork, a journey of around an hour and fifteen minutes, you get a wonderful view of the whole of Ireland. My approach was augmented by some wonderful autumnal sunshine which bounced off the Celtic Sea.

The Dingle Peninsula, one of the Gaeltacht areas of Ireland (where Irish is widely spoken), was my first stop. What struck me instantly was the slowing in the pace of life, everyone from locals to the tourists seemed to be going about their business in an unhurried fashion. A must see stop is the Inch Strand, a long sand spit backed by a dune system reaching into Dingle Bay. Popular with surfers as illustrated on my visit, I was rather wishing that I had brought my own wetsuit to go for a swim!

Next was the famous Ring of Kerry. I drove round the entirety of the 120 mile circular route which is one of the country’s most popular tourist trails.  As a Star Wars fan, I was hoping to have had the opportunity to take one of the boat trips from Portmagee to view the dramatic island monastery at Skellig Michael, but alas the weather thought otherwise. However, there are plenty of other options to enjoy the open views of the mountains, coast and islands of the area.

West Cork was my last destination, with the fishing village of Baltimore first on the list of places to see. En route to Baltimore, the section from Kenmare in Kerry to Glengarriff in Cork was one of the most spectacular I’ve ever had the pleasure of driving. Jaw dropping scenery is around every corner and the road scythes through the mountains via tunnels carved into the rock in the mid-nineteenth century during famine times.

Rock Tunnel Drive, Old Kenmare Road
Rock Tunnel Drive, Old Kenmare Road

Baltimore is the place to be if you want to see Wildlife in West Cork. Marine life is bountiful, with whales topping the bill, as well as seabirds which frequent the cliffs of Cape Clear Island, just a short boat journey from Baltimore.

Kinsale was my last stop in West Cork and Ireland. What a place to finish, despite my visit coinciding with the winding down of the tourist season, the town was buzzing. Unfortunately, I was a week late for the famous Kinsale Gourmet Festival, which celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2016. However, Kinsale is known as the “Gourmet Capital of Ireland”, meaning there is good food to be had all year round! My trip came to a wonderful end in a cosy bar, full of locals and visitors alike enjoying a pint of Guinness whilst listening to a local band playing traditional Irish Music.

The recurring theme of my visit to Ireland was the friendliness and generosity of the people I met. No matter where I went, I was greeted with a smile and an enquiry as to how I was enjoying my time in Ireland, with recommendations of what to do or see next. The genuine interest all my hosts had in my trip and their eagerness to show off their homeland was incredibly endearing. I can’t wait for my next visit!

On a nostalgia trip to the west of Ireland

As a child I spent a very memorable holiday in Connemara, in the west of Ireland. Although we had explored many parts of Ireland and Scotland before, I can still remember the first sight of the white sandy beaches near Roundstone, contrasting with the beautiful bleakness of the boglands, just a few miles inland.

It’s a part of Ireland I am always thrilled to return to. This year, for my birthday, we had the chance for another short visit. Just to add to the nostalgic theme, we drove there from Dublin in a car from the same year as my first visit- a 1974 MGB roadster.

The intervening period has of course seen enormous changes, both in the island of Ireland and in the cars we drive. The first challenge we met was trying to reach the motorway toll booth from the driver’s window – clearly cars are rather higher now than forty years ago. Mind you, there were no tolls in the seventies and certainly no roads worthy of charging for!

Once we reached Connemara, with its small roads sweeping over the dramatically beautiful flatlands between the lakes and mountains, our wee MG seemed right at home.

After an evening enjoying the craic in Clifden, we headed off to re-visit another place which made a big impression on me in 1974 – the memorial marking the landing site of Alcock & Brown’s first transatlantic flight. Years ago this was just a white beacon with some sketchy notices in the middle of a Connemara bog. This year, as part of the Wild Atlantic Way project, an impressive visitor experience has been developed. With boardwalks so you can explore the bogland, and a range of interpretation areas, the fascinating history of “Derrygimlagh” has been brought to life. Not only was this the site of the famous, though somewhat unscheduled landing, but it also marks the spot where Gugliemo Marconi established the first ever commercial transatlantic wireless station. This was an extensive complex, with massive condenser house, staff accommodation, even a social club.

Alcock and Brown certainly picked the right spot to touch down, meaning news of their tremendous feat could be rapidly broadcast. It is still hard to grasp that this one, pretty remote part of Ireland played a key role in two of the last century’s most important innovations – flight and communications.

It seemed a very appropriate place to visit in a classic car. A true nostalgia trip.

And, to round off the day, it was time to enjoy some open top motoring and find those sandy beaches again.

By Robert @ McKinlay Kidd

(Featured photo taken in Connemara)

Dingle, Co Kerry – A music-lovers’ treat

While it’s true that the hotbed of Irish traditional music arguably lies further North in Co Clare, with its myriad week-long festivals and whole villages steeped in ‘trad’, Dingle in Co Kerry does a great job of providing visitors with an authentic music experience in some of the country’s finest pubs.

The entire spectrum of Irish trad is available here, from the gentle lilt and misty-eyed nostalgia of classic Irish balladry, to frenetic, virtuoso playing by some outstanding Co Kerry talent. Often on the same evening, in the same place.

Dingle Main Street is lined with really terrific pubs, many of which feature live music on any given evening, with chalkboards on the street displaying attractions forthcoming. Apart from the music, many of the pubs are worth a visit to catch a glimpse of the past; Foxy John’s is one of the most famous, and continues to operate as a hardware store and a pub. So, if you find yourself needing a new bradawl or some sharp sand, pop in here and enjoy a pint of Guinness at the same time.

Another famed pub is Dick Mack’s, a leather goods workshop on the one hand, and a place to enjoy some Irish hospitality and great craic on the other, while Curran’s Bar is the place to go if you fancy a new pair of Wellington boots, or to choose one of their range of porcelain figurines or from an array of flat caps.

O’Sullivan’s Courthouse on the Mall is renowned for presenting great Irish trad every night of the week, often in ‘open session’ form, where musicians are encouraged to turn up and join in. You’ll find everything here, from bodhrán to flute, fiddle to tin whistle and all points in-between.

One of the most popular spots is John Benny Moriarty’s on the seafront, a larger pub with plenty of space, though you might struggle to find a seat on busier evenings. Music here is just about as important as the craic, Guinness and whiskey, the proprietors being musicians themselves. Some of the finest talent around is to be found here every night, playing a wide repertoire to an appreciative crowd.

Kerry really does have it all: superb, secluded beaches, breath-taking scenery, magical driving routes, brilliant pubs and an array of musical talent to delight even the most discerning audience. Even those strict listeners from Co Clare!

By Chris @ McKinlay Kidd

(Featured photo taken in Dingle)

Nearby discoveries

As the ferry set off from Cairnryan in Scotland I felt a certain sense of trepidation and excitement about this venture. My destination was Belfast, a city only around 100 miles as the crow flies from my home in Glasgow, yet I had somehow managed to visit far-flung destinations such as Darwin in Australia’s Northern Territory, Ushuaia in Argentine Patagonia, Sapa in Northern Vietnam and Cape Maclear on Lake Malawi in Southern Africa before making the short voyage across the Irish Sea.

On disembarking I enjoyed an incredible week walking beautiful windswept coastal pathways, being blown away (literally!) by the myths and legends of the Giant’s Causeway, standing in awe of the country’s industrial past as symbolised by the new Titanic Centre in Belfast and, of course, sampling the food and drink that has made this part of the world so famous. We sampled incredible seafood on Carlingford Lough, steak and Guinness pie in Dublin and a particular favourite of mine was the classic Eggs Benedict with an Irish twist – soda bread instead of an English muffin!

What really stood out for me (apart from the delicious food!) was the friendliness of the people in Ireland, both north and south of the border, and their eagerness to show off all their beautiful island has to offer. I learnt about its culture, way of life and often turbulent history by staying at small, family-run places and getting a chance to really engage and interact with local people rather than being whisked from one bland chain hotel to another. I sampled the local cuisine and Irish whiskey by visiting the places where it is made and speaking to people who share the same passion for locally sourced, sustainable produce. I discovered a land changing quickly, which is keen to celebrate its past but also looking forward to new industries – be it tourism or film production.

This was an unforgettable trip and I am really looking forward to helping our clients see Ireland differently.

By Tom @ McKinlay Kidd

(Featured photo: The Antrim Coast)