My journey to the Highlands began from bustling Glasgow Queen Street station. Watching as busy commuters scrambled to catch their train, I was very much looking forward to the peacefulness of the three-hour train journey to Inverness.
Time went at a slower, more relaxed pace as I stared at the impressive views of the rugged mountainous scenery from the comfort of my cosy train carriage, with the sun shining on the moors as we passed.
Jolted back to reality, I listened as the train conductor announced that we had arrived in Inverness, to the faint tapping of rain on the window as we pulled up to the station.
As I looked outside at the slight drizzles of rain, I realised this was the perfect opportunity to delve into the art, history, and culture all offered in the heart of the city. What better way to learn about a new destination than visiting a local museum?
After a short stop off at a local pub to fuel up on some delicious homemade soup and a fresh ciabatta sandwich, I headed to the historic centre of Inverness, a short stroll from the train station. Situated at the foot of the Castle Hill, the Inverness Museum & Art Gallery boasted a treasure trove of artefacts relating to the history of Scotland.
I was keen to soak it all in and get involved with the interactive exhibitions, ranging from ancient geology and recent history of the Highlands to Jacobite memorabilia and authentic weapons.
The Geology of the Highlands particularly sparked my interest – with some of the original stones on show dating back to the Ice Ages when only a mountain range existed, some 800 million years ago.
As I moved through exhibitions and the decades I learned more about life in the Highlands and how it has evolved to how we know it today, including the origin of Gaelic which came to Scotland in the 5th century from the North of Ireland.
The next stop was the booklover’s paradise of Leakey’s Bookshop – Scotland’s largest second-hand bookshop. The setting housed in an old Gaelic church, with wonderful history behind it, made the visit even more magical.
With books in about every genre you can ever imagine from rare antiques to modern-day best sellers, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to finding a new book to get lost in. The wood stove burning created a perfect homely ambience which made the experience even more enjoyable.
An hour and a new book (or two) later, I headed to Inverness Cathedral located on the scenic banks of the River Ness. Boasting Victorian architecture by Alexander Ross and glorious stained-glass windows, a walk through the UK’s most northerly Anglican Cathedral did not disappoint.
Day two started with a hearty full Scottish breakfast and the sun shining as I set off on my short walk to Inverness bus station, taking in the city’s spectacular views along the way.
On the coach, the journey to legendary Loch Ness began. I tuned into the driver’s guided tour as he shared some local knowledge and history of Inverness.
I then hopped aboard the cruiser headed for the world-famous waters of the loch, securing a seat on the upper deck to get a closer look at the mysteries – would Nessie make an appearance?
The wind blew through my hair as we passed the Caledonian Canal, learning from our guide how the canal was opened in 1822 by Scottish engineer Thomas Telford, with 22 miles of the waterway being man-made and the remaining 38 miles being made up of Loch Ness, Loch Oich and Loch Lochy.
As we drew closer to the shore of Loch Ness, I caught a glimpse of the once mighty Urquhart castle. And so, the exploring began, climbing uphill to the ruins – slightly distracted by the breathtaking views over the loch. I started to gain an insight into medieval life as I walked the grounds, imagining the grand banquets in the great hall, peering into the dingy prison cell in the dungeon area and finally mounting the narrow stairs to the Grant tower.
We finished our visit with a coffee from the café located at the top of the hill, resting in the outdoor seating area – soaking up the sun and taking in the impressive views of the dramatic ruins.
Our coach ride back to Inverness was filled with more wisdom from our driver, educating us about the Highland Clearances which resulted in many Scots emigrating to places such as Canada, America and New Zealand, which is why many people around the world have Scottish ancestors.
I finished the day feeling very patriotic, finding a nearby pub where I joined the locals to watch the Scotland vs Switzerland football. It is safe to say that tensions were high, but everyone joined in on the celebrations when Scotland finally scored.
I boarded the train again the following morning, this time heading to destination number two – historic Pitlochry.
Nestled in the heart of the splendid Perthshire countryside, I felt instantly relaxed as I stepped out onto the train platform. I was mesmerised by the range of unique shops, cafes and restaurants that filled the streets of this quintessential Scottish town in the Highlands.
Famous for its ‘Fish Ladder and dam’ I thought it was only right for this to be my first stop in Pitlochry, following the signposted circular walk from the town centre.
Passing over the dam wall, I read the informative plaques that explained the history of the fish ladder. After the construction of Pitlochry dam as part of hydro-electric works between 1947 and 1951 it was decided that a fish ladder had to be created to allow the annual migration of thousands of Atlantic salmon journeying up the river Tummel and over the dam wall. I was shocked to discover that around 5,000 salmon pass through the ladder each year.
After a bite to eat by the stunning Loch Faskally, the adventure continued – following the same sign-posted path that led me to the Explorers’ Garden situated beside Pitlochry Festival Theatre. The gardens celebrate the contribution of Scotland’s plant hunters. Strolling through the woodland garden I was transported across the globe with many rare plant species – from South America to South Africa to New Zealand.
A quick taxi ride later, I was on my way to ancient Blair Castle – an attraction high up on my list when deciding how to spend my time in Pitlochry. Now open to the public, Blair Castle has been the home to 19 generations of Stewarts and Murrays, I was eager to explore the 30 rooms full of Scottish cultural history.
Entering the castle – I noticed the walls were decorated with weapons forming unusual shapes, which I later discovered were used at the Battle of Culloden. The paintings, furniture and contents of the rooms reflected the lives of the Dukes of Atholl who were adventurers, Jacobites and scholars to name a few, their stories captured against the 18th century interior.
The highlight for me was learning that in 1844 when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert decided to visit Blair Castle for an informal family holiday, rooms were decorated, and furniture was imported specifically for the Queen’s use – with complete secrecy until the minute she arrived.
Captivated by the rich history of magnificent Blair Castle, I decided to explore the surrounding landscapes outside that feature a nine-acre walled garden designed by the 2nd Duke of Atholl, complete with landscaped ponds and a fruit tree orchard.
Overwhelmed with my action-packed day, I decided to conclude my Pitlochry venture with a taxi back to the town centre to reflect on my brief Scottish Highlands trip.
Over a delicious meal at a local restaurant overlooking the atmospheric town centre, I realised how much I enjoyed being a tourist in my own country, escaping the busy city life of Glasgow and taking time to fully appreciate the beauty, history and culture of Scotland. The question soon began playing on my mind, where to next?
Words by Joanna @ McKinlay Kidd
McKinlay Kidd offers a number of holidays in Scotland, including self-drive, public transport and small group guided tours.
If you’re interested in the experience I had, you can book a space on the Loch Ness, The Jacobite & Skye Guided Rail Tour. If you prefer to travel self-guided you could consider the Explore Scotland by Train among a range of options. Slowly… holidays, such as Slowly Through the North Highlands by Train, allow you travel at your own pace for a relaxing tour, or you could ride the rails more extensively on the Grand Tour of Scotland by Train.
Do let us know if you’d like to include any of these destinations as part of a tailor-made tour. Take a look around our website for even more holiday inspiration.
