Isle of Raasay – Over the Sea from Skye

A visit to the Isle of Skye is on everyone’s Scotland bucket list and so it should be with majestic mountains, fascinating geology and traditional Highland hospitality. The highlights and hotspots such as the Fairy Pools and capital Portree are bustling places, magnets for visitors. But if, like me, you hanker to get off the beaten track, consider contrasting a stay on Skye with a couple of nights on neighbouring Raasay. It’s only a half-hour ferry crossing between the two islands but you’ll feel like you are taking a leap into a different world.

Atmospheric views from the south of Raasay over to Skye

Raasay is long, thin and rugged. Houses straggle out from the little harbour, interspersed with ruins, while the recently-established Raasay Distillery gleams like a beacon at the top of the slope, its golden cladding brightening the misty grey skies. We splashed out on a stay here, a little touch of luxury among the wilderness. The bar area is warm and welcoming, with picture views across the bay. In each bedroom a complimentary dram awaits for you to sample the local single malt, while Raasay gin is a favourite tipple at the bar. The distillery tour reveals the considerable efforts of the owners to establish their philosophy here and bring much-needed local employment. We were also excited to hear of their plans for another distillery in Kintyre, close to Campbeltown, once famous as a whisky destination and gradually regaining prominence among connoisseurs.

Raasay Distillery
Enjoying a talk as part of the Distillery tour

At McKinlay Kidd we often provide the advice, nicked from Billy Connelly, that there’s no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes, so pack a sexy raincoat and live a little! Travelling in April, we’d sensibly heeded this so were all set to explore the Raasay outdoors. Our first adventure was a drive to the far north of the island via the single track road, sometimes having to take it slowly around the pot-holes. Eventually we made it to the start of Calum’s Road. A local farmer, Calum Macleod was infuriated when the publicly-funded tarmac came to an abrupt halt just under a couple of miles from his croft at Arnish. Losing patience after years of local campaigning for a proper road without result, Calum took it upon himself to upgrade the footpath, his main tools being a pick, a shovel and a wheelbarrow. It took around ten years of hard labour from the mid-sixties for him to complete the one-and-three-quarter miles. Unsurprisingly this feat is now a thing of folklore, his barrow left rusting away at the start of his road near Brochel Castle as a fitting memorial to superhuman effort.

Calum’s rusty wheelbarrow

We continued by car to Arnish, taking it slowly on the twisty road, then on foot through ancient woodland, a beautiful refreshing walk with no other souls in sight. Every now and again the lichen-clad trees parted, providing gorgeous views across the channel back to Skye. The weather held for us, the sun even making fleeting appearances through the gathering clouds.

By the next morning soft rain had set in. Soft because it falls in gentle droplets but nevertheless enough of them to provide a proper soaking. Fortunately, our jackets were well water-proofed! We drove the short distance down to the south of the island this time, to the old ferry port where the remains of industrial heritage of iron mining are visible, now overgrown with grass and bracken and home to grazing sheep. We walked from here along the route of the old railway, taking in views either towards the volcanic plug of Dun Caan, Raasay’s high point, in front of us or back over our shoulders to the outline of Skye’s peaks. Even in the inclement weather we could understand why some say the best way to see Skye is from Raasay!

Venturing across the Isle of Raasay on foot

We carried on back towards the village, dancing across stepping stones to avoid boggy moss and trickling burns. Regaining hard-standing underfoot, we ducked into the community-owned island shop for takeaway coffee and chocolate to reward our efforts. As I wiped drips from the back of my neck, my thoughts strayed back to Calum and the contrast of his strenuous work undertaken in all weathers, day after day.

Words & Images by Heather @ McKinlay Kidd

Discover the Isle of Raasay for yourself from a less-travelled perspective on our unique See Mull & Skye Differently self-drive holiday. Raasay can also be included as part of a tailor-made trip – just let us know at time of enquiry and we can create a bespoke personal proposal. See more holiday inspiration on our website.


Falling in Love with the Isle of Skye

Somewhere along the Scottish coast

An emerald island lies

So I will steer my sailing boat

Unto the Isle of Skye”

[Andrew Peterson]

I take a glance in the rear view mirror, and can see Glasgow slowly disappearing as we drive north. The weather may have been dreich (dreary) when we left the city, but I can already see the clouds lifting as we inch closer to our destination. I turn the music up, and smile – I am on my way to the Isle of Skye for the very first time.

The road bends along the shore of the magnificent Loch Lomond and through the spectacular valley of Glencoe. I like this drive – it feels like the narrower the road gets, the more spectacular the views become; I feel rewarded for driving there. What I don’t know yet is that this feeling of wonder won’t leave me for the next three days.

One of our first destinations is the Old Man of Storr. I had seen pictures of this iconic location in guide books and all over the Internet for years. I was worried of being disappointed with the reality of the landscape, but I couldn’t have been more wrong. The beauty and unique atmosphere of the place make it a must-see attraction and gives you infinite photo opportunities.

Old Man of Storr, Isle of Skye
My view of the Old Man of Storr

Back on the road again, I cannot remember the last time I was so astounded by a drive. The scenery surprises me at every corner, ever-changing from flat and grassy land to rocky jagged mountains, secluded inlets to expansive sea views, bustling towns to tranquil glens. On each narrow winding road, we are constantly on the lookout for parking places to stop and take pictures. I soon discover that photos can’t quite do the beauty justice, so, I decide to stop looking through the lens of my camera and focus on the moment – once again, I cannot stop smiling. A few more “wows” and we hop back into the car – until we next cannot resist stopping again, of course.

In the evening on our way back from the famous Fairy Pools, the midges have come out but the sky is still too bright to call it a day, so we walk to a local pub. When we open the door, we are welcomed by delightful live music – a local Cèilidh band is playing! The crowd is so energetic that we can barely see the musicians- tables have been pushed to the side and everyone is dancing.

The sun rises so early in this season that the sky is already bright as we wake up the next day. Today, we decide to hike up Blà Bheinn, one of Skye’s twelve Munros. Here again, the landscape constantly changes as we hike up. Slowly but surely, the dense vegetation gives way to a rockier scramble, and the view reveals itself as we reach higher ground.

It is nearly lunch time when we reach the summit. Our legs feel heavy after the strenuous ascent, but somehow we cannot stop walking – the view in every direction is spectacular. We want to see as much as we can, so we continue walking along a narrow ridge to reach a second summit.  Eventually we decide to drop our bags, choosing some rocks to be our lofty thrones, victorious after a fierce hike. We sit in silence, contemplating the horizon. The Cuillin Mountains are visible below the clouds and in one direction we can see the Isle of Rum. This is a hike that I will not forget in a hurry.

Bla Bheinn, Isle of Skye
The panorama from the the ascent of Bla Bheinn

Sadly, the time eventually comes for us to say goodbye to this remarkable island. As we drive away, I look in the rear view mirror one more time. However, I know that I am not really leaving the Isle of Skye today, because every day at McKinlay Kidd we travel back there – virtually – as our customers travel to ensure that your experience on this island is incredible, and that like me, a smile does not leave your face for the duration of your stay.

Words and images from Helene @ McKinlay Kidd.

If you would like to experience the spectacular Isle of Skye – perhaps with a little less walking! – then our West Highland Line to Skye may fit the bill. Alternatively, we would be delighted to tailor-make your unforgettable trip.

Been there, done that, where to get the T-shirt?

During my time at McKinlay Kidd, I’ve been lucky enough to travel to some amazing places in Scotland, and indulge my love of empty beaches, wildlife (particularly Shetland ponies) and seafood. One thing for sure is that I also really, really love a good gift shop – I can’t resist bringing back trinkets from my travels for my friends and family, as well as the obligatory sweet treats for the McKinlay Kidd team of course!

Scotland still proudly promotes traditional crafting methods and celebrates original artwork and textiles. So, think beyond the cliché idea of Scottish souvenirs such as shortbread tins and bagpipe fridge magnets and take a look at my top gift shop recommendations.

Bonhoga Gallery, Shetland

This former barley mill at Weisdale has been converted to a gallery featuring contemporary visual arts and crafts. It boasts an extensive range of locally produced prints, textiles and cards in the gift shop. The mill also houses a café serving light lunches, so is well worth a visit. If you do find yourself in the area, stop off at Shetland Jewellery en route!

Ragamuffin, Isle of Skye

Situated on Armadale Pier in an idyllic location, Ragamuffin is home to the very best knitwear and original clothes. Beware though…this place is an Aladdin’s cave of treasures, so you may find yourself in here for a while. Don’t miss your ferry!

Rarebird, Isle of Lewis

If you journey to the Outer Hebrides, you’re sure to be spoilt for choice when it comes to buying Harris Tweed products. My top pick is Rarebird studio in Stornoway which combines a skilful blend of reassuring tradition and modern flair into each handmade Harris Tweed creation. To ensure its provenance each item carries the Rarebird Corncrake logo and Harris Tweed Orb label.

Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier, Perthshire

For chocolate lovers, The Scottish Chocolate Centre is a must. The centre is located in Grandtully, just five miles from Aberfeldy, and is Home to the Highland Chocolatier, Iain Burnett himself, who is dedicated to chocolate and its origins. The centre also houses an enchanting, vintage style gift shop. Perfect for those last-minute purchases for family and don’t forget to but yourself a few of the centre’s award-winning dark velvet truffles to take home.

Isle of Mull Soap Co. Isle of Mull

Situated on colourful Tobermory’s Main Street, the Isle of Mull Soap Co. produces its natural soaps by hand using the traditional cold process method using the finest quality essential oils & botanicals. Psst….we hear their ‘Buzz Off’ soap is great for fighting off our wee midgie friends!

By Zoë @ McKinlay Kidd

(Featured photo taken outside Ragamuffin, Isle of Skye)