There’s a point in autumn when everything starts to feel completely different. The trees turn copper and gold, the light sits lower over the landscapes and the first fires appear in hotel lounges and cosy pubs. By December, cities are dressed for Christmas and thoughts are turning to New Year’s Eve.
Yes, summer will always have its appeal. But if you’re happy to pack an extra layer, October to December brings quieter roads, lots of events and a completely different atmosphere.
Here is why October to New Year can be one of the loveliest times to travel.
October: autumn colour, quieter cities and Highland warmth
The summer crowds begin to disappear, the roads become easier and landscapes across Scotland and Ireland take on their autumn colours. Hotels that were full a few months earlier have more breathing room, and there is less temptation to rush from one sight to the next.
Edinburgh after the festivals
Edinburgh is perhaps the clearest example of how different a destination can feel out of season.
In August, Princes Street Gardens are busy with festival crowds and the Old Town hums from morning until late at night. By October, the Fringe posters have come down, the leaves have turned and the city feels more intimate.
And with Halloween approaching, October is a particularly fitting time to explore some of Edinburgh’s darker history.
Wander the closes and wynds of the Old Town, step below the Royal Mile at The Real Mary King’s Close, or walk through atmospheric Greyfriars Kirkyard, where centuries of stories sit within just a few streets of the city centre.
Thousands of people were accused of witchcraft in Scotland between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries, and Edinburgh played a significant part in that history. An evening walking tour can bring some of those stories to life, while still leaving plenty of time to enjoy the city’s restaurants, galleries and quieter autumn atmosphere.
That contrast is part of October’s appeal: crisp days spent exploring, followed by dinner somewhere candlelit, a whisky by the fire or an unhurried evening back at the hotel.
Whisky weather
There are few better cold-weather activities than stepping inside a working distillery. The mash house and still room are warm, the air smells of malt and oak, and by the time you reach the tasting room you have usually forgotten what the weather is doing outside.
You may be shown how to nose a whisky before tasting it, or how a single drop of water can uncover notes of vanilla, pear, heather, woodsmoke or sea salt. Even non-whisky drinkers often enjoy the theatre and craftsmanship of the experience.
And, conveniently, travelling by rail means nobody needs to volunteer as driver.
Our Highlands, Castles and Whisky by Train holiday combines Highland scenery, historic stops and distillery visits at a time of year when the journey itself becomes part of the pleasure.
November: bonfires, quiet roads and the first Christmas lights
November is one of those months people often overlook. The crowds have gone, festive season is just beginning and the slower pace makes it a lovely time for a few unhurried days away. Stay somewhere for longer rather than moving every night. Take the scenic train. Book the long lunch. Head back to a hotel where the fire is already lit.
In Scotland, our North Coast 500 Road Trip is particularly well suited to the quieter season, taking you through Wester Ross, Ullapool and Sutherland on some of Scotland’s most scenic coastal roads, with year-round prices from £1,025pp and fewer crowds competing for the view.
Ireland works beautifully at this time too. Along the Wild Atlantic Way, the sea feels bigger, the towns quieter and places such as Galway, Doolin and Dingle settle back into a more local rhythm.
Our Ireland by Train holiday is a lovely fit for November, linking Dublin, Galway and Belfast while somebody else takes care of the journey. It leaves plenty of time to explore at a slower pace, from a guided walk through Galway’s historic streets to an evening in one of its traditional pubs.
And if winter weather does change the plan, there is reassurance in knowing McKinlay Kidd has arranged the detail and our team is available 24/7 while you travel.
December: Christmas markets, winter walks and a few local traditions
Christmas and Hogmanay in Scotland
Edinburgh is an obvious place to start.
Christmas lights glow beneath the castle, the markets bring colour and atmosphere to the city centre, and everything is close enough to explore on foot. Spend the afternoon around George Street and the Old Town, stop for a mulled wine, then stay on as the city shifts from Christmas into Hogmanay.
Edinburgh’s celebrations are among the best known, with the city centre filling for the countdown and fireworks lighting the sky above the castle. But Hogmanay does not have to mean a huge street party. A smaller hotel celebration with dinner, live music and a dram at midnight can feel just as special.
Then there are the traditions. First-footing sees the first visitor after midnight arrive with gifts such as whisky or shortbread for luck, while Auld Lang Syne brings everyone together once the bells have rung.
Glasgow offers a different festive break, with excellent shopping, striking architecture and plenty happening across the city throughout December.
Christmas and New Year in Ireland
Ireland brings its own character to the season. Belfast’s Christmas market takes over the City Hall grounds from mid-November, while Galway’s festivities centre around Eyre Square.
But it is often the smaller traditions that stay with you. A candle may be placed in the window on Christmas Eve as a symbol of welcome. In Dublin, hardy swimmers head into the sea at the Forty Foot on Christmas morning, while in Dingle the Wren Boys parade through town in straw costumes on 26 December.
And sooner or later, somewhere in a pub, Fairytale of New York will make its annual appearance.
The celebrations carry into New Year too, with Dublin’s festival running over several days and older traditions still observed in some homes, from leaving the door open to welcome in the new year to customs designed to send the old one on its way.
Start planning your autumn or winter trip
This is the sort of trip we put together every day: a few days in Edinburgh built around the darker history, a whisky journey by rail, a slow week of Irish coastline in November, or Hogmanay on the biggest party night of the year.
Tell us roughly when you can travel and what you enjoy. There’s nobody better to help plan a winter getaway than a team who’ve done it themselves.
Get in touch to start planning your autumn or winter escape.
And if you are thinking a little further ahead, look out for part two, taking us from Burns Night through to St Patrick’s week.
