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Exploring the charm of Southwest England: A rail adventure through the best of Bath, Devon & Cornwall

The adventure began with my train journey from the centre of Glasgow. Comfortably seated, I found myself a little bit hypnotised weaving through picturesque landscapes down the length of the country to the historic city of Bath. With its stunning architecture, elegant tree-lined crescents and ancient Roman influences, it was a beautiful welcome to a fascinating location.

I was joining up with a group of fellow travellers – none of whom I’d met before – but all of us keen to explore as much as we could of what the South West had to offer. On arrival I soon had the chance to introduce myself and get to know the half-dozen others who’d be joining me on the tour. In the stylish surroundings of our hotel bar we soon established a connection, over our shared passion for travel and a desire to experience new places. One of the key memories from the trip was the people – great conversations, the delight of discovery and many shared laughs.

Next day, fortified by a hearty and delicious breakfast, we headed South Eastwards out and along the scenic route to Salisbury Plain and the world-famous neolithic mystery that is Stonehenge. This is where being accompanied by an expert guide made a real difference, with its storied history being brought to vivid life with tales of druids, magic and thousands of years of theories about its purpose. There’s something immensely powerful about standing in the stone circle’s presence and it’s hard not to be awestruck by the sheer effort that it would have taken to create such a structure at this scale.

From standing amongst mighty stones we then travelled on to the equally magnificent, but slightly less ancient, medieval Wells. Nestled in the Mendip Hills, England’s smallest city has plenty to engage the curious – it almost reads like a ‘greatest hits’ of what a medieval city should feature. The magnificent Well’s Cathedral has dominated the skyline here since the late 12^th century, with an impressively vaulted ceiling and unusual scissor arches supporting the central tower, it’s a remarkable tribute to the skills of the architects and the multitude of stonemasons it took to create it.

A day full of history gave us all plenty to talk about back at the hotel in Bath and we made the most of the rather funky, but extremely comfortable, lounge to compare notes on what we’d seen over a few very convivial drinks.

The following day was one devoted to travel, with a mixture of methods to take us to our eventual destination of the beautiful Dartmoor National Park. We took the train from Bath Spa station and headed to Bristol Temple Meads – designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel and servicing the city since 1840 – and then again on to the Devon seaside town of Paignton, part of the English Riviera. It was here that we boarded one of the many highlights of the tour, the Dartmouth Steam Train (it was certainly one of my favourites). There can’t be many more evocative sights and sounds than the swirl of steam billowing around a locomotive, accompanied by the hissing of the engine and plaintive whoop of the whistle.

Entranced by the picturesque English countryside as we wended our way past village and coastline vistas, it was easy to feel yourself transported back in this vintage train carriage to a more leisurely and elegant way of travel. After this delightful spell of time-travelling we arrived at Kingswear to catch our ferry for a quick hop across to Dartmouth, a quite lovely town situated on the banks of the River Dart. Even the short ferry trip proved to be an event, as we were all thrilled to spot seals swimming around the vessel and reclining on nearby outcrops.

Dartmouth is perfect for pootling around and soaking up a classic English seaside town, with a charming quayside overlooked by rows of pastel coloured houses – it’s an ideal spot for a relaxed bit of lunch and my very traditional repast of fish & chips, followed by a cheeky ice cream, was the perfect accompaniment to our surroundings on a lovely sunny afternoon.

A private coach then took us inland through the rolling valleys of Dartmoor National Park with our drive eventually delivering us to our accommodation for the night and we were all quite stunned as it appeared through the trees – a great hall perched on a low hill, which emanated a genuine sense of grandeur. Though large, the lit fireplaces and cozy ambience meant it was an ideal environment in which to round off such an eventful day. After a delicious dinner I was more than ready to get a good nights sleep among the luxurious comforts of my room.

We boarded our private coach bright and early and began the scenic drive through the park, stopping en route to take in key points of interest. A 14^th century clapper bridge provided a unique insight into how people used local materials and no small ingenuity to cross rivers and open up routes of access. With stacks of rocks creating vertical piles on which were laid large flat slabs of granite or schist, they were often located alongside fords in a river where livestock cold be safely crossed. The word ‘clapper’ derives from the Anglo-Saxon ‘cleaca’ meaning ‘bridging or stepping stone’, though some think it could be from the Latin ‘clapus claperius’ which roughly translates as ‘a pile of stones’. Just across from this we spotted a group of Highland Cattle, which was a bit of a surprise so far from their Scottish homelands, but inspired us all to try and capture photos of these wonderful animals.

As part of our travels down to our destination of St Ives, we had the opportunity to pause in Plymouth, a port city with an illustrious maritime heritage. We visited the Box Museum – a fascinating initiative where their vision is described as ‘Reimagining the future through the past’. By preserving the city’s cultural collections, they look to share extraordinary stories to provide a way of exploring the pressing issues of the current age. I could have stayed for hours, as there’s so much to take in and absorb, though not be overwhelmed by it all. It was then into the café for a tasty lunch and a lively chat through all we’d just seen and heard.

A charming short train journey from Plymouth to Penzance allowed us further time to comfortably ruminate, then we were whisked by our coach to St Ives.

St Ives is a truely picturesque seaside town

St Ives has been described as a dazzling jewel in Cornwall’s crown and it’s not difficult to see why. It’s harbour, golden beaches, myriad of crafts and independent shops and quaint cobbled streets, has been drawing admiration and inspiring artists for many, many years. We embraced the chance to check into our seaside hotel and then explore for ourselves. Being a bit of an art lover, I had to visit the Tate. An iconic gallery, built on the site of a former gasworks and overlooking the Atlantic, it helps to tell the remarkable story of how a small fishing town became one of the art capitals of the world. Besides showcasing artists that are associated with St Ives, such as Barbara Hepworth, Patrick Heron and Peter Lanyon, the gallery also boasts collections for Picasso, Henry Moore and Turner Prize Winners. Absolute heaven!

St Michaels Mount dominates the coastline

The fifth day of the tour promised to be one of my favourites, exploring the Cornish coastline. We began with a visit to St Michael’s Mount, a tidal island joined to mainland Cornwall by a cobbled causeway. The island is crowned by a spectacular castle, with rows of canons staring out from the battlements out on to Mount’s Bay below. Access to the Mount is dictated by the tides, so getting there and back can be an experience in itself and you can find yourself walking back along the cobbles, with the sea lapping the causeway’s edges.

Bronze sculpture of St Michael holding a sword and offering the hand of redemption to the devil

Besides the castle there’s the Church of St Michael & All Angels and a bank of sub-tropical garden terraces that feature many unexpected plants for this location, including agave, cacti and aloe, all clinging to the immaculate patchwork of granite. The market town of Marazion is home to St Michael’s Mount and in itself a wonderful place to spend time and, for those that might find the walk across the causeway a little daunting, has plenty of distractions to occupy – as well as welcoming cafes to sit with a coffee and enjoy the fabulous skyline.

With our coach driver full of local tales and unique insights on our surroundings, greatly adding to the experience, we then enjoyed a meander through Cornwall via a series of visits to Cornish highlights. I was thrilled that we had our first pause in the charming fishing village of Mousehole (it’s pronounced Mowzul by the locals), with its narrow streets and lichen covered houses retaining its own particular character. As a child, one of my favourite books “The Mousehole Cat” featured Mousehole and it was as if those childhood memories had been brought back to vivid life, making for quite a magical experience.

It seems almost a crime to be in Cornwall and not visit Land’s End, it’s an essential photo stop with its famous directional sign post to New York and John O’Groats – though the windswept, rugged cliffs themselves are worth the trip on their own.

From there, and still full of stories, our guide took us through Cornwall’s once proud and vital history of mining. The region was rich in minerals (including Botallackite, a rare supergene copper mineral), and metals such as copper and tin, providing a living for many people in the past. Remnants of the industry are still to be seen and the Crowns Engine Houses are two of the most well-known symbols of this trade, where once over a hundred engine houses drove production, until the fall in metal prices caused them to close. Clinging, almost precariously, to the cliffs in defiance of the sea just yards below, and named after the rocks on which they were built, the Crowns in Botallack are now part of a World Heritage Site. A constant reminder of the hardship and graft required to have made a living from such a tough and dangerous existence.

My final day of the trip promised a much more leisurely itinerary, with the opportunity to experience St Ives further, on a walking tour in the company of our local guide. Strolling through the town we were regaled with stories both historic and personal and there was something to surprise, interest and entertain us at almost every corner. For example, local fishermen once thought it was severe bad luck to whistle at night and, that when they caught fish, they could only count them using an old chant in the Cornish language, or run the risk of inviting mischievous spirits aboard. There are also numerous tales of the giant Blunderbore wreaking havoc to the town with his brother Rebecks.

And, as it was my last day, I couldn’t resist a trip back to The Tate and catch what I hadn’t had time to on my previous visit and take in a little more of that glorious view across the bay, whilst some of my travel companions were attracted by the siren songs of the local craft shops, or wanted to amble along the cobbles once more.

The Tate Gallery in St Ives has some excellent exhibits

It was the perfect end to what had been a blissful getaway.

I’ve already started to plan my return journey, and this time want to spend it exploring more of Cornwall and uncovering its secrets. Would love to combine this with a jaunt across to the Isles of Scilly and see those white sandy beaches, secluded coves and glorious gardens.

Think there’s even a winery that sounds perfect to drop in on.

Words & Images by Victoria @ McKinlay Kidd

McKinlay Kidd offers a number of holidays to Bath, Devon and Cornwall, including self-drive, public transport and small group guided tours.

If you’re interested in the guided experience I had, book a space on our Bath, Devon & Cornwall Small Group Rail Tour. If you’d prefer to travel self-guided on a road trip take a look at our Devon & Cornwall Road Trip. Or if you’d prefer car-free, we have the option of our Slowly Through Somerset, Devon & Cornwall by Train trip. Do let us know if you’d like to include any of these locations as part of a tailor-made tour. Visit our website for more holiday inspiration.

A Quick Dip into Orkney’s Treasures

Although the April morning started with a very beautiful display of heavy snow, by the time I had finished my breakfast—at the locally owned B&B in the heart of Kirkwall—it was a sunny day once again. My hostess let me know that the weather in Orkney never stays the same: there could be snow or very heavy rain, but 5-10 minutes later the sun will come out and grace the beautiful islands once again.

After my morning breakfast, I set out with a local guide to see key areas of Mainland Orkney. The Orcadian accent can be tricky at the best of times to understand (get 2 or 3 in a room together and you might not understand a word!) but thankfully she had her “posh” accent on. I was grateful for this as she had many interesting facts at each site and along the way – the kinds of stories and insights you only hear from a local. I only wish I could’ve written all of them down!

Skara Brae is not only a fascinating site, but also boasts sweeping views over the sea

The weather was a bit chilly as I got into her car to start the explorations, but overall the weather is very mild in Orkney – averaging 5 degrees Celsius in winter and 15 degrees Celsius in Summer – not a place of extremes. The first stop was Skara Brae, a prehistoric village on the west of the mainland first uncovered in the 1800s by a storm. The site is still intact and has great preservation, due to this it has often been called the “Scottish Pompeii”. There are 10 houses in total which you can walk around and look down into from above. You can see all the very ‘comfortable’ looking stone beds, and maybe one or two birds hiding from the harsh winds.

Two birds making themselves at home at Skara Brae

Due to preservation of the site, you cannot walk around inside the remains of these buildings anymore like you used to. Although at the site they do have a replica house – thankfully they made the ceilings higher to accommodate visitors as the originals were more suited to shorter people. The site is around 5000 years old, older than both Stonehenge and the pyramids, but still the houses had an indoor toilet and a primitive sewer system.

Skaill House has Skara Brae on its doorstep, lucky them

We said farewell to Skara Brae as the weather was about to change – Orcadians can tell what the weather will be from looking out to sea at the clouds and ocean. It was just a hop skip and a jump, however, to the next location of Skaill House, which was lucky as my guide’s weather skills did not fail and rain clouds promptly enveloped the area.

The view is incredible as it overlooks Skara brae, which would’ve bumped up the value of the manor when it was discovered. The land was given to the Bishop who built a house after the previous owner was executed for treason. There is a bit of eeriness about the house, especially in the hallway, as this part was built over the sight of an old pre-Viking burial ground. Ghost stories are very prominent at this old manor, with the present laird swearing that late at night he has heard a thump thump thump of footsteps on the old wooden staircase, causing his dog to bark in fear. But upon inspection no one was in sight. This happened many times, causing the dog to hide under the bed terrified each time. These disturbances have been attributed to ‘Ubby’, a local who built an island out in Skaill Loch by rowing his boat out and dropping stones. One night when he went out on his small row boat to add more stones to his growing island, the weather changed, resulting in him being drowned. It is said the ghost of Ubby now haunts his chosen resting place of Skaill House.

Skaill House will transport you back in time with antiques and artifacts

After the chills had left my spine from the ghost stories, we went on the road once again for some more Neolithic sites. A wonderful characteristic of Orkney is the amount of Neolithic sites there are. Even on the way from one major Neolithic site to another, you could see standing stones along the road side and archaeological sites still being worked on. We arrived at the site of the Ring of Brodgar to walk around the outer ring of stones, placed around 4000 years ago. There were 60 stones originally placed, with around 30 still standing today. If you’re lucky and the area isn’t muddy, you can walk around the inner ring to get closer to the stones.

The Ring of Brodgar – 30 stones still standing after 4000 years is something to be proud of

Something that my local guide made clear at all the Neolithic sites we saw is that it is still largely unknown why and how these were built, with it still being a contemporary area of study for Orkney archaeologists, with discoveries still being made to this day. The Ring of Brodgar is thought to be an area where ceremonies took place, between the living and past communities, to communicate with ancestors. The stones all come from different parts of the island, with different communities bringing them together – possibly symbolising the different people that created the stone circle, or it could’ve even been a competition to outdo other communities for the largest and heaviest stone.

Ring of Brodgar standing stone struck by lightning

The image above shows one of the stones that was struck by lightning in 1980, causing a piece of the stone to split and fall beside. The stone still stands, mirroring the resilience of the Orkney ancestors living in such harsh conditions but still building a community that thrives.

Around a 5-minute walk from the Ring of Brodgar are the Standing Stones of Stenness, Originally a collection of 12 stones placed around 5000 years ago, only a few remain now. The stones stand 5 metres tall, towering over the stones used for the Ring of Brodgar in comparison. These stones are showered in myths, one being that at exactly midnight on New Years eve, one of the stones called “The Watchman” leaves its place to take a dip in the Stenness Loch for a wee drink. With how fresh the water of Orkney is, I cannot blame them.

The towering spectacle of The Standing Stones of Stenness

Standing next to one you wonder how they managed to complete such a task so long ago, and why they would do this. Many think the site was used in ceremonies. The Victorians believed that it was used as a beheading site – my guide told me they loved to believe that anyone that came before them were barbarians and very uncivilised. So much so that the Victorians even altered some stones to replicate a place for the beheading to take place.

Victorians altered these stones to make it look like beheading took place

In some ways it’s very lucky that these stones still stand today – a farmer in the early 1800s was annoyed at having to plough around them, so he began to demolish them, incidentally he was not a native Orcadian. He managed to topple and destroy some of the stones before there was public outcry and attempts to burn down his house. However any court action was dropped when he agreed to leave the stones alone. If you look closely at one of the stones, there is a hole where a stick of dynamite was placed but never set off, thankfully.

Waving goodbye to the Neolithic stones, we then drove onto a far more modern point of local History, the Italian Chapel. On our way, we saw a horse in a field and a rather large pony with a mask on. My guide explained that the pony was there to give company to the horse, and it was wearing a mask because it was too greedy. Some ponies will just constantly eat and make themselves ill.

Pony being punished for eating too much for its own good

Photos don’t do the Italian Chapel justice, you must visit it yourself and learn about the history and see what those that built it managed to accomplish with such little resources. It was built by Italian Prisoners of war during World War 2 for a permanent place to worship. They were given no material to work with, all they could use were recycled materials.

The Italian Chapel – an incredible display of artistry in tough times

Every detail inside, such as the stone walls, were very carefully painted to make them look 3D, it’s something you have to see to believe. One of the prisoners said it was created to show that even when trapped in a barbed wire camp, down in spirit and moral, that one can still find something inside that could be set free.

These walls may look like laid brick, but are actually a painted illusion

The art centrepiece of the chapel, was painted by a prisoner called Domenico Chiocchetti who was an artist before the war. It was based on a picture given to him by his mum that he carried throughout the war, of the Madonna and Child who holds the olive branch of peace.

The Centre of the Italian Chapel displays Mary with Jesus in her arms

As you leave the Italian Chapel there is a statue of St George slaying a dragon. Remarkably this is made from barbed wire and concrete. The statue represents good triumphing over evil.

St George – the patron saint for all soldiers – slaying a dragon

I enjoyed my day experiencing the main sites of Orkney through the eyes of a local, they brought it to life with their lesser-known stories and insights. There is still much more I wish to see and do in Orkney, with the rocky landscape of Hoy calling my name the loudest.

Words & Images by Jonathan @ McKinlay Kidd

McKinlay Kidd offer a number of holidays to Orkney, including self-drive, public transport and small group guided tours.

If you’re interested in a guided experience, why not book a space on our North Highlands and Orkney Guided Rail Tour? If you’d prefer to travel self-guided and car-free, we have options including our Far North Line to Orkney trip. Do let us know if you’d like to include Orkney as part of a tailor-made Scotland tour. Visit our website for more holiday inspiration.

The Flaggy Shore – Clare and Inis Mor

A few months ago, my father told me he’d received an invitation to County Clare. He’d reread Postscript by Seamus Heaney, a truly moving reflection on this exceptional corner of Ireland. I was lucky enough to be on my own journey to Clare and onwards to Galway shortly after we spoke, the poem tucked into my notebook and excited – I’ve been lucky enough to explore a lot of Ireland but Clare and Galway were still on my list.

Doonagore Castle on the Wild Atlantic Way

As an avid user of public transport at home and when travelling, I arrived into Dublin and after a short stroll in Phoenix Park, was off on the train to Ennis, the county town of Clare. Known as the centre of Ireland’s traditional music scene I was incredibly lucky to be visiting during Trad Fest and as I explored the town, snatches of sessions drifted out of every pub doorway – it was hard to pick a spot to settle and enjoy some music along with a perfect half pint of Guinness.

Looking for a spot to enjoy a drink and trad session

After a very comfortable evening, I was up early the next day to meet my tour guide Trevor, for a tour-transfer through the Burren up to Ballyvaughan where I had picked a spot for chowder before travelling up to Galway later that afternoon.

First, we set off towards the Cliffs of Moher, a must for any visitor to Clare. Well maintained and invested in by the Irish government with facilities appropriate to the 1.5 million visits every year, there is still not much that can prepare you for the view – an almost surreal experience. Had I more time I would have done some of the coastal walk, but it was time for us to venture deeper into the Burren.

Heaney’s words came to life as I struggled to decide which way to look – out to the ocean on one side or the magnificent karst landscape of the Burren on the other? My visit was in November, a favourite time of the year for me as I adore the low winter sun but I resolved return in the summer, to learn more about the unique wildlife and flora within.

After an incredibly enjoyable few hours I enjoyed a late lunch in Ballyvaughan with a view of the Atlantic in front of me before travelling up to the city of Galway. I was instantly charmed – the medieval quarter with its shops, bars and restaurants was an appealing place to while away a few hours before some fresh scampi, chips and a local beer, before heading back to my harbourside hotel.

The contrasting limestone landscape of Inis Mor

The next morning I was up bright and early for another highlight of this trip – a day trip to Inis Mor, the largest of the Aran Islands and at the time of my visit having become suddenly very well known, having been used as one of the filming locations for The Banshees of Inisherin.

In the summer time, a ferry goes to Inis Mor from right by my Galway city hotel, but in November I was to hop on a bus up to Rossaveel where I caught glimpses of the wilds of Connemara before catching the ferry, where we were joined by a pod of dolphins as we crossed, thrilling as my first ever sighting!

On arrival I was met by a local guide, a native Irish speaker who had lived on the island most of his life. I was most grateful for his company as we crossed another flaggy shore to Poll na bPéist – The Wormhole, a naturally formed and almost perfectly rectangular pool, surrounded by the tall waves of the north Atlantic – essential to have an experienced guide on hand to keep you right!

We explored the island as my guide shared stories of the island and its people and history. Farming has been a huge part of the island’s history, the stone wall patchwork of the island a constant reminder. Whilst around 800 people live on the island, much of the island is still completely untouched and has no electricity or water supply, and belongs to nature alone.

My day went in quickly, enjoying my tour, an obligatory Irish stew in Kilmurvey in a traditional thatched cottage, followed by a walk up the cliffs of Dun Aengus by myself, an easy walk and a welcome opportunity to reflect on this special island before retracing my steps back to Galway city by ferry and bus as dusk fell, before a train back to Dublin to begin my way home the following day.

Inis Mor and Clare had given me a taste of Ireland I hadn’t yet experienced, with these differing scales of distinctive landscape made up of ancient limestone contrasting beautifully with my experiences of Cork and Kerry but as always, with that special essence of Irish hospitality and spirit.

My experience in Clare and Galway was made all the more memorable by the talent and passion of the guides I met, a perfect harmony of the environmental benefits of car-free travel marrying with the social and ethical benefits of supporting local tourism. I’ll have to borrow Heaney’s summation to conclude how I felt after this experience, which caught “the heart off guard, and blow it open.”

Words & Images by Caoimhe @ McKinlay Kidd

McKinlay Kidd offer a number of car-free holidays to Ireland – why not check out our Explore Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way Car-Free trip or take your time on our three-week Slowly Through Ireland by Train holiday? Or, if you’d prefer a fully escorted experience in the company of a knowledgeable guide, discover our Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way Guided Rail Tour. Visit our website for more holiday inspiration.

Across Ireland to the Edge of Europe: Tom’s Car-free Irish break

When I’m exploring a new part of the world car hire is usually one of the first things I book so I know how I’m getting from A to B, especially outside main cities. So it was with some trepidation that I set off for Ireland last week on a car-free trip taking in Dublin, Galway and the wonderful Aran Islands. On arrival at Dublin Airport I was met by my friendly driver and whisked into the city centre via the impressive and rejuvenated Docklands area – the sheer number of cranes on the horizon and the number of high-tech firms who have moved in was a sign of a city on the move. I used Robert’s Recommendations, which are personally researched by our Founder and Director Robert Kidd and supplied to all McKinlay Kidd clients, to navigate my way around the Irish capital and made use of taxis, buses, trams and my favourite method of transport in a new city – walking. From St. Stephen’s Green to Trinity College to Dublin Castle I managed to get a real flavour of the city, discovered some quirky off-the-beaten-track attractions and sampled amazing food and great craic in the pubs of the city.

After far too short a visit it was time to move on to the west of Ireland and the excellent service from Iarnrod Eireann (Irish Rail) really let the train take the strain as it whisked me across the country from east to west in less than three hours with great views of the countryside of the Irish Midlands. The train comes in to the heart of Galway City at Eyre Square in the heart of the Latin Quarter, a fantastic warren of narrow cobblestone streets bursting with pubs that host trad music throughout the week as well as some of the best seafood restaurants I have ever eaten at. The hotel was located just a few minutes’ walk from the station and I spent the afternoon walking the path that runs along the fast-flowing River Corrib before sampling some local oysters, which luckily go very well with a pint of Guinness!

The highlight of the trip was the crossing to Inis Mór, the largest of the Aran Islands, accessed by bus from Galway City to the ferry port an hour to the west in the Connemara region then by a 45 minute ferry crossing. The landscape of this incredible island is marked by the distinctive limestone pavements that are also found in The Burren region on the mainland as well as the remoteness of the island’s location on the very edge of Europe – we took a ride in a jeep to the very western tip of the island with nothing out ahead of us but the Atlantic Ocean all the way to Newfoundland, an amazing thought! I would recommend staying at least a couple of nights to experience the island’s amazing Irish speaking culture and rugged scenery but unfortunately my trip was only for the day. I still managed to have a browse in the Aran Sweaters shop and enjoy a pint of Guinness before taking the evening ferry back to the mainland!

The following day it was a seamless journey back to Dublin on a spacious, brand new train to connect with my short flight back home to Scotland and without realising it I had become a car-free holiday convert! So next time you travel why not consider leaving the car and travelling by public transport as the locals do – you see your destination from a whole new perspective.

By Tom @ McKinlay Kidd

Have a bit more time for your own holiday? Check out McKinlay Kidd’s Grand Tour of Ireland by Train.

Exploring ancient civilisations in Orkney

Last month I was in Orkney for the first time. I have never been that far north before. I flew from Glasgow to Kirkwall, the main town, instead of taking the ferry. The weather was gorgeous and we could see all the islands – turquoise water and empty lands…I was already loving it! As a non-driver, I want to share some recommendations of what to see and do. You don’t need a car to explore Orkney and see the main sites.

Kirkwall is a great base with very nice hotels in town, giving you the opportunity to walk everywhere. Go to the pub and try one the island’s famous whiskies – Highland Park or Scapa. Explore St. Magnus Cathedral, located on the main street. Known as the ‘Light of the North’, it is one of Orkney’s Viking splendours and definitely worth a visit. Staying in Kirkwall makes it also very easy to visit other islands. Did you know that Orkney has more than 70 of them? From Kirkwall ferry port you can go to all the northern isles, for example Shapinsay, Westray and Papa Westray.

If you have time, I advise going to the isle of Rousay for a day trip, taking the ferry from Tingwall. The visibility was so good that we could see all the other islands around us – even Westray! I discovered from the local guide that Rousay is called the Egypt of the North because of so many neolithic remains, such as Midhowe, with its broch and cairn.

No trip to Orkney is complete without at least a visit to Skara Brae and the Ring of Brodgar, both are listed as world heritage sites. At Skara Brae, you can imagine how ancient people were living… and also walk down to the nearby sandy beach. The Ring of Brodgar was for me a completely different experience. A circle of standing stones? I’ve never been interested in such sites, but as it’s one of the most famous and iconic symbols of Orkney’s prehistoric past, I thought it would be a shame not to see it. OK, I take back everything I said! It is a very impressive and spectacular structure!

A trip to Orkney is a truly remarkable experience, when you can feel the history and find something unique around every corner.

By Kim @ McKinlay Kidd

(Featured photo: St. Magnus Cathedral, Orkney)