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Day One – To Arran
A little under an hour from Glasgow will find you in Ardrossan on the Ayrshire coast for your first ferry-crossing, again just under an hour to Brodick on the Isle of Arran. Hebridean in culture and history, though separated from them by Kintyre, Arran is filled with prehistoric and Neolithic sites telling the story of a turbulent past of feuds, battles and complex politics. Its skyline dominated by majestic Goatfell, the island boasts an array of wildlife and some quite superb beaches, alongside expansive moorland, swooping driving routes and endearing villages both coastal and inland. Food-and-drink lovers will find much to enjoy here, too, with cheese, chocolate, biscuits, beer and whisky, for example, all produced on the island and ready to tempt the taste buds.
Your Hotel on Arran
Just 10 minutes’ drive from Brodick will find you in the pretty village of Lamlash on the island’s east coast, where this small, family owned hotel is set just back from the shore. With views from its sheltered garden across Lamlash Bay towards enigmatic Holy Isle, this award-winning gem features simply decorated, elegant accommodation and a relaxed bistro serving an impressive menu created from the finest local produce.
Day Two – Around Arran
With 57 miles of coastal road, traversing evocatively named villages like Blackwaterfoot, Thundergay and Sannox, a drive around the island is not to be missed. Stop off along the way for a stroll on one of the island’s terrific – and often deserted – beaches, before heading inland to Machrie Moor to see its imposing Neolithic standing stones, or, for a more demanding walk, pack a picnic and take the wild and rugged route to remote Loch Tanna, the island’s largest and most beautiful body of water. Arran contains a host of appealing cafes and restaurants to suit any taste and budget, while its dedicated group of producers offer regular tours and tastings delivering some of the most authentic food and drink experiences in Scotland.
Day Three – Ferry from Arran to Kintyre
Drive 40 minutes north from your hotel to Lochranza to catch the 30-minute ferry-crossing to Claonaig on the west coast of the Kintyre peninsula. From here, perhaps make a short detour north to the pretty fishing village of Tarbert, where you’ll find friendly locals, and one or two appealing shops and cafes on the harbourfront.
Later, take the rolling B-road down the west coast of the peninsula to the delightful village of Carradale and your base for the next two nights.
Your Accommodation in Kintyre
Nestled on the edge of the village of Carradale and recently rescued from near-dereliction, your accommodation in Kintyre is an impressive Victorian former manse, just moments’ stroll from the beach. The welcoming owners have created cosy and attractive accommodation, each bedroom furnished with a selection of repurposed and antique pieces, skilfully placed alongside more modern beds, high-spec en-suites and atmospheric lighting. The inviting bay-windowed guest lounge features a crackling fire to warm the toes on cooler evenings, perhaps while enjoying a local dram from the bar, and the opportunity to enjoy in-house dinner means you can relax for the evening and take a break from driving.
Day Four – Under the Skin of Kintyre
Kintyre is our favourite Scottish peninsula and we’ll share our local knowledge so that you get the best from it. You’ll find spectacular beaches in all directions, though some are hidden at the end of farm tracks or across fields. Pre-history abounds, with standing stones and burial cairns galore, if you know where to look. It may feel remote now, but centuries ago this was a densely populated area, when the sea was the main travel thoroughfare. Seals are easy to spot – you’ll often find them basking around Machrihanish or Southend at the tip of the peninsula. Look out for the white flashes of gannets diving into the sea. Otters and golden eagles are much trickier to find, but you may strike lucky. Of course, weather and driver’s courage permitting, you must make the journey to the Mull of Kintyre itself, via the seven miles of twists and turns of the single-track road. It’s a wild and desolate place, even when the sun is shining but, you never know, the mist might just roll in from the sea! Campbeltown, the main settlement, was once the richest town per capita of population in Scotland – look out for the impressive loch-side villas. It’s not quite so grand these days but is home to Springbank whisky, famous for its traditional production methods and still run, since 1828, by members of its founding.
Day Five – To Islay
A short drive north this morning will take you to the ferry port for the crossing to Islay, where your hotel awaits.
Your Accommodation on Islay
Situated in the heart of the 18th-century ‘island capital’ of Bowmore, this historic whitewashed inn by the harbour has seen a host of changes over the years. Most recently it’s been brought up to date with stylish en-suite bedrooms featuring splashes of tweed and contrasting earthy tones, while downstairs you’ll find a new conservatory with gorgeous views across Loch Indaal. What a great spot in which to enjoy a dram. The hotel’s award-winning restaurant offers an “a la carte” menu incorporating seasonal dishes using the finest locally sourced produce, while for more informal dining, the lounge bar offers an all-day menu.
Days Six and Seven on Islay
Once the ancestral seat of the Lords of the Isles, Islay is a fertile island of low heather-clad hills. Learn more about its early history with a visit to Finlaggan, home of the Macdonald chiefs or to Kildalton Chapel with its early Christian cross. The Museum of Island Life in Port Charlotte provides a fascinating insight into the social history of the area. In the island capital of Bowmore, you can visit the unusual Round Church – so designed to ensure there were no corners for the devil to hide in!
Like neighbouring Kintyre, attractive beaches and wildlife abound. The island’s main claim to fame is the abundance of whisky distilleries – eight or nine in operation at the last count! The combination of pure water, Hebridean air and smoky peat gives the Islay distillations a particular acquired taste, although they vary greatly from distillery to distillery. Ardbeg and Laphroaig vie with one another to produce the peatiest ever, while young upstarts such as the farm distillery at Kilchoman jostle to establish their own niche. Let us know your favourites and we can pre-arrange tours for you to ensure you don’t miss out. We can help with local taxis, too, if required.
If you fancy bagging another island to add to your collection, it’s perfectly possible to jump on another ferry for the short crossing to Jura, to the north. The contrast is dramatic. The island’s single ribbon of road hugs the eastern shoreline, with the distinctive peaks of the Paps looming in the west beyond acres of wild moorland. You’ll soon understand how George Orwell found the necessary solitude here to write of the Big Brother nightmare in his famous future-gazing novel, 1984.
Day Eight – Return home
By ferry back to the mainland, then onwards to Glasgow. Your route will bring you through the picture postcard village of Inveraray, where you might choose to stop off and visit the castle – still home to the Duke of Argyll – or stretch your legs at Crarae Gardens, featuring wonderful species of rhododendron and azalea. A final drive over the aptly named “Rest and Be Thankful” pass and along the shores of Loch Lomond leaves Argyll behind as you approach the outskirts of Glasgow and head for home.
