Journey to the Mull of Kintyre

Amid talk of Scotland’s popularity as a tourist destination, if one knows where to look, it remains disarmingly easy to escape any crowds and bustle. Your holiday begins in just such a place: Argyll’s Secret Coast, or the Cowal peninsula as it’s more formally known. Arrive here either by ferry to Dunoon from just west of Glasgow, or by taking the long way on a wonderful drive around Loch Lomond, over the often-eerie Rest-and-be-Thankful pass and along the shores of majestic Loch Fyne.

Your Hotel

This once industrial nook on Loch Fyne has been skilfully repurposed over the past few years to create a leisure facility of huge appeal. Three distinctly different features are spread around a lengthy inlet incorporating comfortable holiday accommodation, a world-class spa and a small but perfectly formed marina. Guests are invited to roam betwixt and between, perhaps taking a stroll on the lengthy decks to admire the watercraft, or on a longer walk on the Cowal Way. The fully equipped spa features all you’d expect – 16m indoor pool, sauna, steam, treatment rooms and such – but the real clincher is Scotland’s largest heated outdoor infinity pool in a quite breathtaking position overlooking the loch.

Bedrooms are spacious and modern, some featuring views of the loch or over the extensive gardens and marina, and there is a range of dining options here, from fine to casual.

Take your time over breakfast as there’s no hurry to reach the ferry port, mere steps from the front door of your accommodation. Board the ferry late-morning for the short crossing over Loch Fyne to the classic Argyll fishing village of Tarbert. Wander here visiting the harbourfront shops, selling everything from fine whiskies to local crafts, or moody Tarbert Castle before setting off for the short drive to your next coastal base.

Your Hotel

Located by the seaside near Campbeltown is your recently upgraded family-owned hotel. Perhaps enjoy a delicious meal in the conservatory restaurant where you might be lucky enough to catch a stunning sunset.

We never tire of Kintyre, its craggy coastline, golden beaches, forests, distilleries, gardens and more. Drop a little south from Carradale along a terrific driving route, pitching and yawing its way to Campbeltown, once the undisputed centre of whisky production. Along the way, perhaps take in a visit to Torrisdale Distillery, home to crisp Kintyre Gin, the remains of 2000 year-old Kildonan Dun or the ruin of Sandell Abbey. Later, tide-permitting, walk the causeway to Davaar Island to visit its decorated cave and impressive lighthouse.

40 odd years since its residence at the top of the charts, nothing much has changed at the Mull of Kintyre, mist continuing to roll in from the sea and we still would always wish to be here, thank you. This ancient landscape of deep historical significance represents the very origins of Scotland, and continues to evoke a peace and tranquillity unrivalled by almost any corner of the UK. Deserted, golden north Atlantic beaches, rugged cliffs and coastline, and a panoramic view that takes in Arran, Ailsa Craig, Northern Ireland, Rathlin and the Southern Hebrides, it’s difficult to think of a more special place to visit.

Your Hotel

This historic hotel once regularly welcomed captains of industry and their families, who descended on Machrihanish for summer holidays with their steamer trunks and visions of relaxing times on the beach and golf links. Now fully restored, with just 22 rooms and suites, it brings sophistication to the area once again.  Imagine waking up in the morning to views of the sparkling Atlantic across to the isles of Islay and Jura, enjoying a hearty Scottish breakfast, and then heading out for a day’s exploring.

Be sure to traverse the meandering and bumpy single-track road to the Mull itself for a genuine edge of the world feel. Intrepid travellers will love the challenging walk down to the lighthouse, or maybe you’d prefer to simply sit and be romanced by the views to Ireland (mist permitting!) The coast at the nearby village of Southend is often home to seals and otters, and is the spot where St. Columba first landed before heading to Iona.

This morning sees you return north, up the west coast of Kintyre to Tayinloan, stepping off point for the short ferry-crossing to the island of Gigha. Though tiny (just seven miles long by a mile and a half wide), Gigha is home to a wealth of fascinating history, including ancient standing stones and ruined churches, the fabulous Achamore Gardens, white, sandy beaches and a terrific restaurant serving fresh lobster on a good day. Having fallen in to some decline towards the end of the 20^th century, the island was subject to a community buyout in 2002, and is today a thriving community focused on sustainable agriculture, art and tourism, and is a wonderful place to spend a day.

From Tayinloan it’s an hour or so further north to your final base in the hamlet of Kilberry.

Your Accommodation in Kilberry

This modest, whitewashed former croft on the Knapdale peninsula, surrounded by roses and topped with a bright red corrugated roof, hides a calm and welcoming haven within. The family hosts have spent many years developing a reputation for serving some of the finest food (and negronis!) in the west of Scotland, majoring on the very best produce from the surrounding area including lamb, beef, game, fish and shellfish, their cosy bar popular with locals and tourists alike. Bedrooms are just off the main building set around a small courtyard and have recently undergone a delightful makeover, with simple fittings and decor ensuring a fuss free and relaxing stay. Dinner is included here on both nights.

The natural beauty of this largely undiscovered corner of Scotland is right on the doorstep of your accommodation, with hidden forest walks and deserted beaches just a stone’s throw away. Take the short stroll towards the shoreline to the arresting Kilberry Scupltured Stones, or further along the coast to Ormsary for views of the Knap peninsula. Chances are, you’ll have all of this to yourself, sharing only with local wildlife, including recently reintroduced beavers, whose trail you can follow while learning about the crucial work going on here to foster the development of their population.

Return to Glasgow and onwards to home. Our suggested route brings you by Inveraray and Loch Fyne, then to Loch Lomond, before picking up the main routes from Glasgow.